iPhone X back cover repair guide

1. Turn your iPhone off completely to avoid damaging it during the repair. Press and hold the Standby button and one of the two volume keys for three seconds, until the "Power off" slider appears.
2. Swipe the slider from left to right. Now your iPhone will shut down completely, which can take about ten seconds.

• 2 × 6,8 mm Pentalob

You need a pentalobe screwdriver (PL1) to open the iPhone X.

1. Remove the two pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the back cover. They’re to the right and left of the Lightning connector. Put the screws in the same box of your magnetic pad.

1. Put your iPhone X on a soft, clean surface to avoid scratching the back.
2. To lift the front panel, you need a suction cup, a hard plastic pick and a heat gun. If the screen is severely cracked, cover all of it with packing tape before you continue.
3. The screen is glued to the frame. Use a heat gun to heat the outer edges of the display to about 60°C (140°F).
4. Place the suction cup over the Home button (if possible) or next to it. While lifting the screen with the suction cup, insert the hard plastic pick between the steel frame and the display frame and press down the steel frame.

If you are using an iFlex, switch to a plastic pick as soon as possible to avoid scratching the frame.

1. Because the display’s glued on, you have to slide the pick all around the iPhone between the aluminum frame and the display frame. Don’t stick the pick in too far on the side where the Sleep/Wake button is because that could damage the display flex cables.
2. Now use the pick to push up the display so the tabs disengage from the steel frame. Then you can fold the display over to the side.
3. Rest the display on a stable object to avoid straining the sensitive flex cables.

Heat the outer edge of the frame several times if necessary.

After being opened, your iPhone X loses its guarantee for dust and spray water protection (IP 67 rating).

• 1 × 3,0 mm Y-Type
• 3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 3,6 mm Y-Type
• Battery Connector

Before starting the repair, disconnect the battery contact to prevent short circuits and avoid accidentally turning on your device during the repair.

1. Use a Y-Type screwdriver (Y000) to remove the Y-Type screws. Then take off the bracket plate. Put all the parts in the same box of your magnetic pad.

Note that the screws have different lengths


Apple introduced Y-Type screws with the iPhone 7. They are often wrongly called Tri-Point or Tri-Wing. Use a matching Y-Type screwdriver for these screws so you don't strip the screw heads.

2. Now very carefully pry off the battery contact by inserting a spudger under the connector.

• Display Connector
• Earpiece Connector

1. The display unit is connected by three connectors.
2. Use a spudger to separate the connectors for the display and the earpiece one by one.
Be very careful when prying off the connectors using the spudger to prevent damaging anything.
3. If all connectors are off, you can remove the display. There may still be glue residue on the frame and display.

• 1 × 1,5 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,4 mm Phillips
• 2 × 1,8 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,5 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
• Connector

1. Remove the Phillips and Y-type screws on the bracket plate of the speaker. The screws have different lengths. Place them on your magnetic pad in a way so you can assign them later.
2. First fold up the bracket plate and then unplug the connector using a spudger.
3. Remove the bracket plate.

• 1 × 2,2 mm Y-Type
• Connector

1. Unscrew the Y-typescrew of the bracket plate over the flex cable leading to the speaker.
2. Then remove the bracket plate.
3. Now disconnect the flex cable and lift out the flex cable a bit.
4. You can now remove the speaker with the flex cable. First pry out the speaker a bit using a spudger and then pull it out.

The speaker is strongly glued to the frame.

• 1 × 2,2 mm Phillips

1. Remove the Phillips screw fastening the Taptic Engine.
2. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine’s connector.
3. Now remove the Taptic Engine.

The battery is glued to the case with four adhesive strips. The adhesive strips have tabs to pull them out. Three tabs are glued to the bottom edge and one strip to the top edge of the battery.

1. Use tweezers or a spatula to peel off the black tabs. Underneath are the white adhesive strips.
2. Now pull out the adhesive strips very slowly. Keep the strips as flat as possible at the level of the iPhone.

Make sure not to damage any of the two flex cables at the bottom and top edge of the battery.

If one of the adhesive strips tears, you have to pry out the battery carefully using a wide Spudger. Try to bend the battery as little as possible.

Firmly hold the battery and iPhone while pulling out the last adhesive strip to prevent the battery from falling out of the device.


3. Once all the adhesive strips are off, you can remove the battery.

• Camera Connector
• 1 × 2,2 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips

1. Take out the two screws und remove the bracket plate of the iSight camera.
2. Lift up the small metal tab over the top end of the bracket plate.
3. Disconnect the two connectors of the double camera using a spudger.
4. Pry out the camera using a spudger and remove it.

Before you can remove the logic board, you have to remove the SIM card holder.

Use a SIM tool or a paperclip to go into the opening next to the SIM card holder and then remove it.

• 1 × 2,8 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,1 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
• Lightning connector
• Camera flash connector
• Speaker connector
• Front-facing camera connector
• Wi-Fi antenna connector
• Wireless charging connector

1. Disconnect all connectors from the logic board. They connect for example the charging socket, the flash, the front camera and the volume keys.
2. One contact is under the flex cable of the front camera. Carefully bend the cable to the side and lever off the connector. If that doesn't work, you can also remove the front camera module first.
3. Then loosen the screws of the motherboard.
4. With a screw a small metal piece is fastened, which presses on a contact surface at the board.
5. Then carefully bend all flex cables to the side and remove the logic board.

• 1 × 2,3 mm Standoff

Where the headphone socket used to be there is now a small plastic cover screwed on.

1. Loosen thes crew and remove the part.

There are special screwdrivers for removing the internal thread screw, but you can also use a regular, thin slotted screwdriver.

• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
• 2 × 2,6 mm Standoff
• 2 × 3,5 mm Phillips

The flex cable of the charging socket is glued to the back cover and secured with several screws.

1. Loosen all screws of the Lightning Connector. The two long screws that lead down are a bit more difficult to loosen.

Heat the entire flex cable with the heat gun to loosen the glue more easily.

1. Use the steel spatula to slide under the cable and gradually remove it from the back cover. Be careful not to damage it with a sharp edge of your tool.
2. Carefully remove the golden microphone from the frame.
3. Lever the charging jack out of its guide and then loosen the rest of the cable. Heat several times to make the glue easier to remove.
4. When everything is loosened, you can remove the Lightning Flex cable.

Next take out the second flex cable at the bottom of the backcover. The flex cable serves as Wi-Fi antenna and connects the loudspeaker to the logic board.

1. Heat the flex cable all over.
2. Remove the cable from the backcover with the steel spatula and take it out.

Make sure you keep the glue and don't leave it in the back cover.

The whole front camera unit is hooked on both sides.

1. Carefully lever it out and then heat the glued flex cable.
2. Carefully pull out the cable until you can remove the whole module.

• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,0 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,8 mm Phillips

The flash and the power button are on a shared flex cable.

1. First loosen the screws that fix the button.
2. Then heat the glue again and loosen the thin cable carefully.
3. Flip the cable to the side and use a pair of tweezers to remove the flash and the small microphone from their sockets. The microphone for video recording is more glued.
4. Remove the black frame around the flash.

Check to see if the adhesive pad on the microphone remains on the cable. If not, remove it from the back cover and stick it to the cable.

• 3 × 1,4 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,5 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,3 mm Phillips

The second antenna cable at the top of the device is also glued and fixed with several screws. With several screws there are also small parts screwed on.

1. Hold the brackets firmly with the tweezers and remove the screws

Remember the orientiateion of the brackets so that you can screw them back in properly later.

1. Then remove all other screws.
2. Then you can heat the cable set and carefully remove it from the backcover with a steel spatula.
3. Then take out the whole cable.

• 1 × 1,4 mm Phillips

1. Remove the screw that fixes the small cable next to the camera opening.
2. Then heat the cable and gradually loosen it with the spatula until you can remove it.

• 7 × 1,4 mm Phillips

Next, remove the brackets for the display.

1. Remove all screws and remove the brackets.

Remember the orientation of the clamps. If they are inserted incorrectly, the display will not fit correctly later.

• 1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,5 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
• 2 × 1,4 mm Phillips

The mute switch, the volume keys and the charging coil are on the same assembly. The keys are screwed into the housing and the cable is glued.

1. Loosen all screws first and then heat the whole flex cable.
2. Loosen the cable carefully with the steel spatula and heat it several times if it cannot be loosened.
3. Then place the tweezers under the charging coil cover and loosen the charging coil until you can continue with a wider tool.

To remove the charging coil we recommend the iPlastix. The soft and flexible tool is easy to put under the charging coil and does not scratch the inner coating on the inside of the back cover.

1. Heat several times and gradually loosen the coil until you can remove it from the device.

In the last step the buttons themselves are removed. This is a bit trickier and needs some patience. The buttons are secured with a metal bar, which is hooked in on both sides.

1. Pull out the handle on one side and then remove it.
2. Lever the silver metal bracket up on one side and then pull it out.
3. Slide the button out of the frame and take it out.

How to remove the buttons is best seen in the video. The video for each step can always be started from the first image (Play button in the upper left corner).

1. The volume buttons are removed in the same way. First remove the bracket, then lever the holder upwards and then remove the button.

All parts are now removed and you can start reassembling. But before you start you should compare your spare part with the old back cover and check if you still have to take over small parts like brackets or seals.

1. Place both back covers next to each other and take over all necessary parts.
2. This includes spacers and gaskets, for example.
3. Don't forget the SIM pin, otherwise you won't be able to remove the SIM card holder later.

Since our backcover is still intact, we have not used a new spare part for these repair instructions. But the procedure is the same.

Now install all buttons again.

The buttons are symmetrical, so you don't have to pay attention to the orientation when inserting them.

1. Then put the bracket on and press it firmly until it clicks into place.
2. Then fold it over and insert the metal bar first on one side and then on the other.

Do the same for the other two buttons.

• 1 × 1,7 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,5 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,8 mm Phillips
• 2 × 1,4 mm Phillips

Next use the assembly for the volume keys and the charging coil.

1. Put the charging coil in its place and place the metal holders of the keys.
2. Use the screw holes for orientation and make sure that the mute switch bracket is over the other bracket.Then run the thin flex cable d downwards and check the position of the charging coil again.
3. When everything is in place, you can tighten all screws again.

• 7 × 1,4 mm Phillips

Next, insert all three display brackets again.

1. Position the first bracket and screw it in place with its screws.

Make sure to align and screw the brackets correctly, otherwise the display will not fit properly.

1. Insert the other brackets as well.

• 1 × 1,4 mm Phillips

1. Place the small flex cable in its position and use the different screw openings to align it.
2. Press it a little on everywhere and make sure that it sits correctly on the edges of the backcover.
3. Screw the cable to the side of the backcover.

• 3 × 1,4 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,5 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,3 mm Phillips

1. Place the flex cable in its position and use the different screw openings to align it.
2. Press it a little on everywhere and make sure that it sits correctly on the edges of the backcover.
3. Screw on the flex cable and insert the brackets as well.
4. Align the brackets with the tweezers and screw them in.

Pay attention to the correct alignment of the bracket, so that the front camera & FaceID module fits correctly later.

• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,0 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,8 mm Phillips

Before using the flex cable with the flash and the microphone, make sure that you use the small oval adhesive pad for the microphone.

1. If the glue did not stay on the microphone, use it from the old back cover.
2. Check again if the glue on the microphone is in the right position and place the microphone in its opening.
3. Place the rubber frame in the opening and make sure it is aligned correctly.
4. Place the flash in its opening and place the metal holder of the standby button on the frame.

The metal holder must be placed under the existing bracket.

1. Screw the metal holder in and then glue the thin flex cable flat to the back cover.

1. Now place the assembly with FaceTime camera and infrared sensor in the device. Hook the metal brackets on both sides under until the whole module sits correctly.
2. Press the flex cables in the backcover a little bit in.

You can also skip this step and install the front camera unit after you have installed the logic board.

1. Put the last antenna flex cable in its place at the bottom of the backcover and press it down so that it sits flush everywhere.

• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
• 2 × 2,6 mm Standoff
• 2 × 3,5 mm Phillips

1. Position the Lightning Connector in the iPhone and slide the charging socket into its opening at the bottom.
2. Position the small golden microphone on the bottom of the back cover.
3. Lead the flexible cable along the edge.
4. Screw the Lightning Connector on and insert the screw of the other flexible cable on the side.

• 1 × 2,3 mm Standoff

1. Place the barometric cover in place and push it into position when screwing in.

• 1 × 2,7 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,1 mm Phillips
• 1 × 1,1 mm Y-Type
• Lightning connector
• Camera flash connector
• Speaker connector
• Front-facing camera connector
• Wi-Fi antenna connector
• Wireless charging connector

1. Make sure that all flex cables are lying flat in the backcover and then insert the logic board. Bend all cables a bit to the side so that you don't trap any of them under the logic board.
2. Put on the small metal piece at the lower screw opening.
3. Secure the logic board by inserting the screws.
4. Then connect all connectors. Take your time and proceed carefully. Position the connectors above their positions on the logic board and press carefully. The contacts should engage slightly. Don't slide the plugs back and forth and try not to push them tight with force. Use a spudger for the small plug at the top to push it down.

Insert the SIM card holder. You shouldn't feel any strong resistance, otherwise the Logicboard might not fit properly.

• Camera Connector
• 1 × 1,9 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,2 mm Phillips

Make sure that there is no dust or fingerprints on the camera lenses and on the inside of the camera cover.

1. Put the iSight back in its opening and press it down.
2. Connect the connectors of the two cameras.
3. Place the cover upright on the side of the standby button, then fold it down.

Make sure you position the small tab over the cover.

1. Screw the cover plate in place with the two screws.

Place the adhesive strips with protective films attached in the device to make sure that they point in the right direction.

1. Remove the large blue protective film and stick the adhesive strips to the bottom of the battery. Make sure they are straight.

When attaching the adhesive strips, leave enough space on both sides to fold over the tabs.

2. Turn the battery over, fold over the tabs. and paste them to the edges of the battery.
3. Remove the large pink protective film from the adhesive strips.

1. Place the battery back in the rear case and press it in to make it stick.

Pay attention to the positioning of the battery. Use the connector for orientation, which should be directly above the contact on the logic board. Leave some space at all edges of the battery to other components and the frame so that the battery is not pinched in.

• 1 × 2,2 mm Phillips

1. Put the Taptic Engine back between the battery and the Lightning connector. Make sure the screw holes of the Taptic Engine sit correctly.
2. Connect the Taptic Engine’s connector.
3. Fasten the Taptic Engine with the phillips screw.

• Connector
• 1 × 2,2 mm Y-Type

1. Place the speaker back in its original position and press it in.
2. Press in the connector of the speaker.
3. Put the bracket plate over the connector and screw it in using the Y-type screw.

• Connector
• 1 × 1,5 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,4 mm Phillips
• 2 × 1,8 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 1,5 mm Phillips
• 1 × 2,2 mm Phillips

1. First connect the square-shaped connector of the bracket plate.
2. Fold down the bracket plate so the screw holes are over the threads.
3. Screw in the bracket plate using the Phillips and Y-type screws.

1. To make sure that the new frame sticker will really stick, remove all glue residue and dirt from the metal frame.
2. Remove the first protective film layer of the frame sticker.
3. Position the frame sticker carefully on one edge of the frame and attach it gradually. Make sure the frame sticker is positioned evenly and press it on. You can use the plastic spudger to press the adhesive on.
4. Remove the next large protective film.
5. You can leave the small protective films on for now and remove them when you've connected the display and attached the bracket plates. This prevents anything from sticking to the frame sticker before you install it. But you can also remove the films right away.

Please make sure the frame sticker is positioned correctly. Each corner has a different shape, which you can use for orientation.An iPhone repaired with a frame sticker will be protected against dust and spray water, but it will not be 100% waterproof!

• Display Connector
• Earpiece Connector

1. Place the display unit on the edge of the frame and rest it against a stable object, in order not to overstretch the sensitive flex cables. Make sure your device doesn't slide away.
2. Connect the two display connectors.
3. You might need to press down the lower of the two connectors with a spudger to make it sit properly.
Make sure the connectors attach properly. Don't slip and bend the socket contacts on the logic board.
4. Use tweezers to position the earpiece connector over its socket on the logic board.
5. Carefully press to attach the connector to its socket.

• Battery Connector
• 1 × 3,0 mm Y-Type
• 3 × 1,0 mm Y-Type
• 1 × 3,6 mm Y-Type

1. Now you can connect the battery connector.
2. Then insert the bracket plate and fasten with Y-Type screws.

1. Take the display with both hands and slowly fold it down.
2. Place it flush on the frame and gradually press it on until it sits firmly.

You can test the display and other functions of your iPhone before you finally close it.

• 2 × 6,8 mm Pentalob

1. Screw the two pentalobe screws to the left and right of the Lightning connector into the enclosure.